Dish · 5 kitchens in 4 cities
Liver
Lamb, calf or goose liver — grilled on skewers, roasted or fried.
Nobody paid to be here. Each kitchen is described from its own menu where it publishes one, unranked, so each note says how that kitchen makes it.
In London
Lamb liver
Enfes Ocakbaşı · Harringay · ~£22 pp
Lamb liver cut small and grilled on skewers over charcoal. Beside the Adana.
In Istanbul
Ciğer şiş
Ciğerci Hulusi · Caferağa · ~₺1100 pp
Lamb liver grilled on skewers
Ciğer şiş, lamb liver cubed and grilled on the skewer, with peppers roasted over embers, onion and sumac. The skewer we came for.
Arnavut ciğeri
Asmalı Cavit · Asmalımescit · ~₺1600 pp
Arnavut ciğeri, Albanian liver, cubed and fried, with red onion and sumac. The hot plate after the cold meze.
In Budapest
Libamáj roston tokaji mártással
Rosenstein · Józsefváros · ~Ft 17,000 pp
Libamáj, goose liver, grilled and served with a Tokaj wine sauce, baked apple and potatoes. The main we'd come to this family table for.
In Vienna
Geröstete Kalbsleber mit Erdäpfelpüree
Gasthaus Pöschl · Innere Stadt · ~€45 pp
Calf's liver, roasted, with potato purée. Our pick for anyone who'd rather have liver than crumb.