We'd add
Our runner-upWantan-men (わんたん麺)
Soy-sauce ramen with pork dumplings
Wantan-men, pork dumplings in the same soup over the morning's noodles. For a hungrier day.
- Noodles made each morning
- Niboshi soup, the house's kaeshi
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AI-made picture of the dish, not a house photo
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Our dish — the plate we'd order here firstChūka soba (中華そば)
Chūka soba, the old Tokyo name for soy-sauce ramen: curly noodles kneaded that morning, in a soup of niboshi, dried sardines, bonito, vegetables and kelp. The noodles change thickness with the season, and it's what we'd come to Ogikubo for.
Harukiya
Japanese · ramen · chūka soba · Ogikubo, Tokyo
1-4-6 Kamiogi, Suginami, Tokyo 167-0043
Must-goOne of the few places in this city we'd plan a trip around.
Harukiya began as a street stall in postwar Ogikubo, and this shop near the station is still its main one. The kitchen starts at six every morning, kneading its own noodles and simmering its own soup.
The proof, in the house's own words
Why the chūka soba
Craft
Noodles kneaded each morning, adjusted to the weather, checked strand by strand.
“春木屋が受け継いできた独自の技法”
Technique
A fish-and-kelp dashi, finished with the house's own kaeshi.
“煮干しと削り節、さらに数種類の野菜や昆布などの素材をふんだんに用いて煮込んだ出汁”
Tradition
A postwar street stall that kept the core of its taste for three-quarters of a century.
“戦後の荻窪で屋台から始まった春木屋”
Peak timing
The noodles turn thicker or thinner with the season.
“季節によって麺の太さが変わってくる”
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